Seven Kuna

The 'Fugee's friend that was supposed to come with us had scheduled vacation time but was needed at work because of her unique skills etc. The 'Fugee sent her some pictures and told her that we were thinking about her... She told the 'Fugee that God had given this "time" to us and we should enjoy it.

If I had my way, I would have enjoyment for the masses...

I can't even remember what all the 'Fugee and I did before we headed off to Split the other night. What I do remember is that our bus driver drove like an aggressive bat out of hell. The third time that I mentioned this to the 'Fugee she told me what they used to say about such people -- He drives as if he has potatoes on his bus -- not people.

Split, wow, a lot of people in the Port of Split. Lots of people. Performers on the program and street performers trying to earn a kuna. Stunning architecture, lots of places to ear but too many people for me.

Port of Split

When I saw how much it cost to travel from Split to Austria, I had a moment of regret that traveling abroad never got on my radar when I was younger. The only person that I knew who'd gone abroad was an uncle who went to Germany because he was in the military.

At any rate, I've had a great trip and I'm not going to let "could have beens" diminish that fact...

Theatre, Split

Drama about what happened to people in Vukovar.

I had a superb juice of apple, pineapple, mint and something else and, of course, I had to use the bathroom not too long after that. I don't understand the scarcity of toilets -- especially in Split with the mass of humanity that visits. Eventually found a toilet and paid seven kuna then my iPod fell into said toilet. It came back on but there are issues...

We caught public transportation back home and the 'Fugee asked two young ladies a question and when she said thanks, they responded simultaneously in a singsong voice "Nista..."

The line to get on the bus was long and a single file line? Forget it. Personal space? Forget it. Air conditioner? Forget it.

This bus driver also took hairpin turns at an impressive speed. When we got off the bus, the 'Fugee asked me to slow down. "I'm walking as if I have doll's feet" she said.

Just Four of Us

It's been nine days since I took off for my journey and eight days since I've been in Bosnia. I have yet to open a book, peek at a magazine or listen to the many podcasts that I downloaded. Guess that's a sign that I am immersed in my home away from home...

On Tuesday night, we made a dash to the grocery store and I was surprised to look up and see three children warmly smiling at me. The youngest was really curious but hesitant to engage. I did give the older children high fives. It was such a sweet encounter -- the open faces and warm energy.

Yesterday we set out to catch a ride on the city bus tour. We had gone several days ago but the the tour was canceled because five people are needed and there were only four of us. Even though we all agreed to chip in for a phantom fifth person, the bus driver wasn't having it. 

There were the same number of people yesterday but, this time, the bus driver took us up on our offer to pay for a fifth ticket.

There is no air conditioner on the bus and, with the windows down, it was impossible to hear the tour guide who was on the first level of the bus. This woman from Croatia went to strongly suggest that he come upstairs. There was also a microphone port upstairs but the quality was questionable and I ended up moving to the seat behind the guide. Had I not had the 'Fugee to fill in the gaps, I would have missed a lot of information... I'm enjoying the directness of Europeans. It kind of cracked me up when the Croatian woman's husband asked for the English version of the tour map. The bus driver unceremoniously "snatched" the Bosnian version. He was not a rude person but fluff was not a consideration...

One of the things that the guide talked about was the poor condition of the trams which were made in the Czech Republic 30 years ago. There are a few new trams, one donated by Turkey. He also talked about funds, in general, that were donated after the war but how large amounts of money have seemingly disappeared which made me think of the funds mishandled by the Red Cross after the earthquake in Haiti.

Going down the main boulevard, mortar scars are everywhere. I remember the TV images of the Holiday Inn from the news coverage and when the guide mentioned that we were on Sniper Alley, also remembered that and thought about the horror of people being picked off while riding the tram or going to get water...

Former Holiday Inn

Sniper Alley

Olympic Venue, 1984

End of the Line, Bus Tour (Serb Republic)

Later on, we met up with one of the 'Fugee's friends for lunch then went to a mall for coffee and dessert. The mall was big but still seemed stylish and efficient. 

In general, love the Austro-Hungarian architecture. The 'Fugee's friend is appalled by an "awning" recently placed on one of the buildings. She was like How could they?...

The Academy of  Fine Arts (Green Dome)

Wooden Bridge

Offensive White Add-On to Entrance Area

When The Stove Eye Is On Four Or Five

I was hanging at Hazira's on Friday night. We ate dinner, chit chatted then watched a quirky little flick, Cyrus, followed by a little of Michael Palin's New Europe.

Right on cue, 'round 11:30, my left hand (holder of the most bumps) started itching. I try Shea butter then rubbing and more rubbing. Hazira, who happens to be a Healing Touch practitioner, decided to do unruffling.

Almost as soon as her hand hovered over my left hand, I felt the heat -- like the kind of heat you feel when the stove eye is on four or five.

By the time Hazira finished with the unruffling, I felt coolness, drowsiness (okay, it was close to midnight) and itch-free.

On the way home, I listened to Goran Bregović's Silence of the Balkans and wondered where I had put my Ederlezi CD.





Thanks to Hazira for drawing out the heat...


AND


Happy Birthday to my mama (who kept me away from hot stoves and everything...)