The Rat Grew on Me

I showed up for Lead Climbing 101, a class that my rock climbing gym offers and while I was not a bundle of nerves, I was definitely nervous because, first, a second waiver was placed before me.

Everyone gets the rock climbing is inherently dangerous warning in books, gear, videos etc. but lead climbing is, apparently, and inherently even more dangerous...

It was an hour before we actually hit the wall, though, because we went over practical information about how to check one's rope for wear and tear, how to flake the rope, the anatomy of quickdraws and lead belaying which is definitely different from top rope belaying.

And we practiced clipping which didn't prevent me from back clipping when I actually started climbing.

I've actually forgotten what Nick, one of our instructors, said was the cardinal sin of lead climbing but I do know that I committed another cardinal sin -- lack of communication.

I was so focused on clipping that I forgot to tell Mike when I was clipping which is not cool; I should have been consistently communicating with my belayer, the most important person in my life when climbing.

It was a lot of information to take in about the delicate balance of giving enough slack but not too much or not pulling the climber off the wall because you have the rope too tight. I kept forgetting that a lead climber needs about three feet of rope when starting a route.

I didn't forget that you need to spot the climber in order to control their fall if they should happen to separate from the wall when starting his or her ascent and I didn't forget to holler rope when pulling the rope down to prevent some unsuspecting bystander from walking by and getting popped in the head.

You can give a climber a hard or soft fall. Through no skill of my own, I was able to give Mike a soft fall when he detached from the wall.

Trisha (co-instructor) asked for me to take a fall when I got past the fifth clip. It took a few moments for me to get composed which prompted Trisha to say trust your belayer, trust your belayer.

In my mind, it had nothing to do with trust. I know that Mike's a great belayer but I've never liked roller coaster rides. When I finally let go, I kept waiting to stop falling and I eventually did.

What can I say? Never trust an instructor with a rat tattoo on her arm. Actually, the rat grew on me.

The Fun Dihedral or Overheard At The Gym, III

Male climber: You're selectively nice.

Female climber: Silence.

Female climber: More silence.

Female climber: I'm going to be selectively nice and let you take Metrolink instead of giving you a ride.

He has a strength to weight ratio that I can only dream about.

Chris, one of my climbing partners, regarding his son who scampered up Grab the Jug, a 5.8 route.

Chris

On belay?, Climber

Belay is on., Person taking belay certification

You can't answer that question., An Upper Limits staff member

The would-be belayer had not taken enough slack out of the rope.

At this point, I'm not running my schedule; my schedule is running me.,Chris

I don't really eat meat but I'll eat Pappy's ribs., A woman's comment when a discussion about said ribs broke out.

So, it's better to have climbed and lost than to not have climbed at all?

After explaining to Jerry (Mike's brother) that, while one should follow the designated route, sometimes we climb out of our comfort zones, get practice and make our way to the top any way possible.

This is horrible -- Sophie about halfway up a gnarly 5.11b.

As Sophie got towards the top, she did this awesome move were she swung her body from right to left to get over the arch.

Sophie is strong., An observer watching Sophie climb

I don't like this route (Billy Goat Chips). I probably need to do it out of antipathy., Chris

That dihedral is really fun., a climber suggesting a route to Patti and me.

But, um, yeah; it's a 5.11a called Top Kill.

I saw the Reel Rock Tour and realized that I have been such a pansy. I'm going to take my climbing to the next level., Kristen

What are you taking to the next level?

All I Really Need To Know I Learned While Rock Climbing

A figure eight knot is a powerful knot but it never hurts to have a fisherman’s knot as a back-up.

A strong core is advantageous.

Ask if the person is finished with a route before you start grabbing ropes.

Balance -- that’s what it’s all about…

Be attentive.

Be careful where you’re stepping and watch out for overhead traffic.

Be gung ho or don’t come at all. (Provided by Patti)

Be helpful to the newbies or someone struggling to ascend a route.

Be responsible.

Cheer for people – encourage them.

Communication is important.

Don’t be afraid to really stretch out and reach for the hold that you want; you might bend but you won’t break.

Don’t step on anyone’s chalk bucket.

Feel the fear and climb anyway.

Feel the fear and jump for a hold beyond your reach.

Flexibility is useful.

If one technique does not work, reposition your feet, shift your weight and try a different approach.

If someone is climbing alone, ask the person if they would like for you to catch them.

If you see someone struggling to secure the auto-belay, help.

It might not be today and it might not be tomorrow, but you will eventually make it over the arête.

It’s not if you get to the top, it’s when you get to the top.

Muscle memory is a beautiful thing.

Never give up on making it to the top, especially when people are taking a tour of the gym and standing right beneath you.

Relax.

Share your knowledge.

She who giggles first slips off the foothold last.

Some days you'll be in the climbing zone and some days you will not.

Take a break, breathe and reassess the situation then keep heading toward the top.

Wait your turn.

Watch out for the children.

Yoga helps.

You can never have enough belay partners.

You might fall but your belayer will catch you.

Your framework is strong.

Fellow rock climbers, do you have anything to add? What are some of the most important lessons you’ve learned from fitness activities and endurance events?

There Is No Try...

When I got to Upper Limits, there was a group of the cutest little girls. I love it that parents have active birthday parties for their kids and judging from all of the squealing going on upstairs, they had plenty of energy to expend.

Here's my gear on a bench before I got all harnessed up -- complete with belay devices and chalk bag.

I went climbing with Jessica and we both had pretty good outings. Jessica was a bit sleepy and this guy had us cracking up. He was like: What's with the yawning? Before you know it, I'll be yawning and it'll spread through the gym. Have some coffee, man, before climbing. And, let me tell you, I think the anti-yawner was properly caffeinated.

The anti-yawner was belaying for Yoko (I know her name because he called it out several times to give her tips) and told her: There is no try; there is only do or do not. Jessica immediately looked at me and started shaking her head because I've told her that I will try before. So, be advised, never tell your belayer that you are going to try to climb a route.

I tackled my first 5.9 route, Beware of Bats. I did it awkwardly, experienced sewing machine leg, felt there was no way that I could progress up the wall at one point -- like a checker player with one piece left facing a board full of kings -- but I did it. I know those holds look innocent enough but you should see the whole route. Jessica had me laughing too. She was like Beware of Bats? Beware of 'Drea. Jessica, flattery will get you everywhere...

Today's route tally:

Truxton or Bust, 5.6
Gymnopaeda, 5.7
Sponge Bob, 5.7
Bright Idea, 5.8 (3x's)
Face Plant, 5.8
Beware of Bats, 5.9

The Climber's Situation

Me: (((Yawn)))

Patti: Am I keeping you up?

Me: I'm up.

Patti: No, you need to keep me up.

Yes, dear. I know my job description:

Belayer responsibilities

As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must remove the slack from the rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, then they will free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before friction applied by the belayer will start to slow their descent. It is extremely important for the belayer to concentrate on the climber's situation, as their role is crucial for the climber's safety... from Wikipedia

The first route (turquoise one) almost wore me out today. It's bad when you tussle with the first route because you feel all tuckered out but I was able to make it up several more routes including three 5.8's; the 5.8's are never done prettily but I'll take it:

Bright Idea, 5.8 (complete with holds that had faux red light bulbs)
Face Plant, 5.8
Sol, 5.7
Truxton or Bust, 5.6

I wonder what goes through the route setter's head when he or she is naming the route.

I know what should be going through my head: climb with your legs and, as REI Anna points out (1:32), position your arms so that you are putting the weight on your skeleton and not your arms.



I was doing way too much gripping today. My hands were so tender by the time I warmed down on Truxton or Bust that it was almost a bust.

Callus Watch:

One for the Books

Well, I went to my last rock climbing class and I'm officially in the Center of Clayton's book as a certified belayer.

It was a good class. I felt more relaxed and I tried a few new things.

In order to wake himself up, Instructor "J" decided to climb without using his legs which was quite impressive. I got exhausted just watching him.

In talking about technique, "J" mentioned speed climber Dan Osman and suggested looking up some videos on YouTube. As soon as I saw the first video of Osman climbing, I knew how his biography would end and, sure enough, I googled his name and everything was in the past tense.

In 1998, Osman died in Yosemite National Park.

I definitely don't planning on doing any outdoor climbing anytime soon.

Here are some ascent pics from my last class and, yes, I made it to the top.