Saturday, January 16, 2010

The Climber's Situation

Me: (((Yawn)))

Patti: Am I keeping you up?

Me: I'm up.

Patti: No, you need to keep me up.

Yes, dear. I know my job description:

Belayer responsibilities

As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must remove the slack from the rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, then they will free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before friction applied by the belayer will start to slow their descent. It is extremely important for the belayer to concentrate on the climber's situation, as their role is crucial for the climber's safety... from Wikipedia
The first route (turquoise one) almost wore me out today. It's bad when you tussle with the first route because you feel all tuckered out but I was able to make it up several more routes including three 5.8's; the 5.8's are never done prettily but I'll take it:

Bright Idea, 5.8 (complete with holds that had faux red light bulbs)
Face Plant, 5.8
Sol, 5.7
Truxton or Bust, 5.6

I wonder what goes through the route setter's head when he or she is naming the route.

I know what should be going through my head: climb with your legs and, as REI Anna points out (1:32), position your arms so that you are putting the weight on your skeleton and not your arms.

I was doing way too much gripping today. My hands were so tender by the time I warmed down on Truxton or Bust that it was almost a bust.

Callus Watch:


  1. oh my gosh! you really made me yawn with that first sentence. For real. Oh no....and here I yawn again. All your fault.

  2. Yum Yucky,

    Ah, the power of suggestion. (((Send Special K fruit crisps, TLC tasty little cereal bars, almond butter, Annie's homegrown bunny grahams, Italian roast coffee and Wasa crackers to 'Drea without delay.)))

  3. haha. Yep, I have to tell myself that when I climb too! I love it though. It is totally worth all the battle wounds!

  4. Nicole,

    I told my belay partner that the calluses get me officially kicked out of the *ladies' club* and she said, I never belonged to that club.

    Climbing is definitely addictive and, by the way, I dig the title of your blog...