The Lowdown and The Poet Laureate of Rock Climbing

My rock climbing gym opened a new location. There's:

The Old Crappy Gym and
The Monstrosity

Mike, Patti and I hit The Old Crappy Gym first since the new one wasn't slated to open until noon for the grand opening celebration. Mike and Patti started lead climbing and, since the gym was pretty empty, I wondered if I should attempt the lead climbing test again. As soon as I started thinking about it, my heart starting beating faster despite Patti telling me to stay calm.

I went and got a short rope to practice on one route and I knew that I needed to take the test while I still had something in the tank. I went to the front desk to announce my intention.

Dude comes over and gives me the lowdown:

No back clipping

No z-clipping

No missed clips

No rest

The only time I will be allowed to rest is after the fall

Sure, no problem, and thanks for reminding me to relax.

I thought the whole "no rest" thing was a bit much because I see lead climbers resting all the time. Does taking a rest mean that you're not a safe climber?

I take a deep breath and, as my mother likes to say, there's no experience like bought experience. I do not miss the second clip this time and there's a certain amount of relief knowing that I'm on belay after the second clip.

I'm told that when I get to the hold with a split in it -- above the fifth clip, I need to fall and I don't hesitate because I just want to get it over with. I let go and I'm so pleased when I stop falling. I get my rest and I chalk up and I hear Patti from below shouting out encouragement but I'll be damned if a rock that I've been able to step up on (from the side) gives me problems and, that's it, the test is over because I can't step up on that one rock.

After the fall, I thought about how close I was to the top and I kept thinking no mistakes; don't blow it. Even though I didn't get my lead certification, I feel much better about this test than the last one and I don't think that I should have been "failed" because of one misstep. I don't think that I've ever seen a lead climber ascend a route flawlessly or without a hiccup but the staff member said that he was "failed" for a similar misstep. Whatever...

We head out to The Monstrosity and I'm glad that we went to The Old Crappy Gym first because the new gym was jam packed since there was free climbing for everyone.


Leah wrote this Macbeth inspired poem after my first attempt at the lead climbing test.

Clipping, and clipping, and clipping,
Creeps in this petty pace from day to day
To the last attempt of leaded climb,
And all our yesterdays have lighted there
The way to dusty falls. Out, out, brief misclip!
The test but a walking shadow, a poor player
That struts and frets its hour upon the stage
And then is heard no more: it is a tale
Told by our eventual victor, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.

And Leah was so in love with the new gym that I told her I felt an How Do I Love Thee? inspired piece was surely on the horizon and it was:

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
I love thee to the new breadth and height
My limbs can reach, when climbing out of sight
For the endless routes to flash and onsight.
I love thee to the level of frictions'
Most quiet help, by sun and fluorescent light.
I love thee sorely, as Crossfit women Might;
I love thee elegantly, to backstep on the crag.
I love thee with the passion put to use
In my old gym, and with my harness tight.
I love thee with crimps I seemed to use
With my heel hooks,–I love thee short of breath,
Smiles, smears, of step throughs!–and, if routes choose,
I shall love thee better after the arete

.

I've enjoyed all of Leah's poems but felt that she really nailed the last line in "How Do I Love Thee?." I've officially dubbed her The Poet Laureate of rock climbing...

One Boulderer To Another or Overheard at the Gym, IV

Note: Most of these exchanges were overheard at the rock climbing gym.

People who rock climb are not into comfort.

Brandi while helping someone select a pair of shoes during Upper Limits' Black Friday sale.

My toes are sound asleep.

Patti's commentary on her toes which were in her new climbing shoes and weighing in at about two sizes smaller than her street shoes. Brandi, LOL, helped her select the shoes.

Marrying you is one of the smartest things that I've done...Marrying you is probably the smartest thing that I've done.

Mike to Patti

This hurts. Boy Scout who was trying to put on his rock climbing shoes.

It's supposed to hurt. Another Boy Scout

Like, I can't even get my foot in the shoe...Boy Scout

Over Here-ah? Young boy who was trying to get input from his father about where to place his foot.

Boy: I want to come down.

Father: Don't look down; just keep going.

I'm afraid of heights, a little shorty halfway up Slabtastic, a 5.6 route

His father tried to convince him to continue with his ascent.

It's okay. It's all right. Don't worry about it. You can just climb. It's okay...

A young man repeated this refrain to his friend who did not pass her belay test. He reassured her for quite a while.

Shorty (hesitant about continuing upward): I haven't been here in a while...

Mother: I'm here. I gotcha.

How do I get my fat ass off the floor?, One boulderer to another...

Boulderers will often start a route in a seated position. That's Ryan getting ready to start a route.

The Fun Dihedral or Overheard At The Gym, III

Male climber: You're selectively nice.

Female climber: Silence.

Female climber: More silence.

Female climber: I'm going to be selectively nice and let you take Metrolink instead of giving you a ride.

He has a strength to weight ratio that I can only dream about.

Chris, one of my climbing partners, regarding his son who scampered up Grab the Jug, a 5.8 route.

Chris

On belay?, Climber

Belay is on., Person taking belay certification

You can't answer that question., An Upper Limits staff member

The would-be belayer had not taken enough slack out of the rope.

At this point, I'm not running my schedule; my schedule is running me.,Chris

I don't really eat meat but I'll eat Pappy's ribs., A woman's comment when a discussion about said ribs broke out.

So, it's better to have climbed and lost than to not have climbed at all?

After explaining to Jerry (Mike's brother) that, while one should follow the designated route, sometimes we climb out of our comfort zones, get practice and make our way to the top any way possible.

This is horrible -- Sophie about halfway up a gnarly 5.11b.

As Sophie got towards the top, she did this awesome move were she swung her body from right to left to get over the arch.

Sophie is strong., An observer watching Sophie climb

I don't like this route (Billy Goat Chips). I probably need to do it out of antipathy., Chris

That dihedral is really fun., a climber suggesting a route to Patti and me.

But, um, yeah; it's a 5.11a called Top Kill.

I saw the Reel Rock Tour and realized that I have been such a pansy. I'm going to take my climbing to the next level., Kristen

What are you taking to the next level?

The Good Life

Patti to me: Climbing doesn't look too promising this week. August 30th

Patti: Friday lunch is out for me...but Mike might be available.

Me to Patti: I'm not sweating the climbing thing; it's probably time to shake up the routine anyway...

Me: I said that I wasn't sweating not climbing but knowing that Upper Limits will be closed on Monday, LOL, I'm starting to sweat it. Sept. 3rd

I have fingernails and receding calluses -- a sure sign that I needed to get back in the climbing gym. It wasn't a great outing but it wasn't bad either.

Route Tally for Sept. 8th:

People's Choice, 5.7
Scott's First, 5.8
Steller's, 5.8
Where's My Mind?, 5.8
Where The Beer Flows Like Wine, 5.8
Hermano?, 5.9 (Attempted four times but couldn't get over arête.)
Pacman Revival, 5.9
Photosynthesis, 5.9



Side note: My barber asked me about my holiday weekend. Had to think a minute about what holiday then I recovered. I told her that I bicycled, walked, read etc.

Oh, you gotta good life; I wanna do stuff like that...

It was interesting to see her perspective on what constitutes a good life especially since I've been feeling stuck lately.


Do you feel like you have a good life? Feel free to elaborate...

Overheard At The Gym

Note: All declarations were made at Upper Limits rock climbing gym.

Gravity is gravity, a father to son.

I'm just gonna hang out here for a minute while I get my act together, a woman ascending a 5.9 route.

When you're outside, you fall further and there's enough time for adrenaline and that feeling of imminent doom to kick in. Woman discussing lead climbing...

I've always enjoyed slabs. A woman about to climb Heeling the Pain, a 5.10 route next to Slabtastic, a 5.6 route

Climber: It's hard. Belayer: Well, it's a 5.10; shake it off and chalk up.

Youngin: Mommy, you're a bad rock climber. Mother: That's not polite; you won't have a turn until you can be polite again...

That's a mental crux, belayer to climber stuck on a route.

It takes too much energy to rest, Burke after ascending a challenging route.

I just want to quit my job and play all day. John, a young climber

Oh, no. Not the 'C' word. Ryan to her friend climbing The Greater Good, a 5.9 route

Do two pull-ups. Lick the pole. An excited Ryan to her friend who made it to the top of The Greater Good

I laughed so hard with Ryan that she turned red. We, rightly so, introduced ourselves after all of the laughter.


For the record, route tally for Wednesday, August 25th:

Where the Beer Flows Like Wine, Unrated
Grab the Jug, 5.8
Steller's, 5.8
Where's My Mind?, 5.8
Hermano?, 5.9
Pacman Revival, 5.9
Photosynthesis, 5.9
Scratch and Sniff, 5.9

Overheard anything memorable at your gym?

You Find The Strength Somehow: A Look Behind The Rock Climbing Scene, Part II of III

This interview is part two of one that I conducted with Jessica and Patti, two of my belay partners. I wanted more information about rock climbing and I couldn't think of a better place to start.


‘Drea: What would you consider your climbing style?

Jessica: I like to go side to side. I like to flag a leg out, do drop knee, do a lot of – kind of almost contorting…twist my body. I like the logical routes that are built for people who are about my height. Yusuf (former Upper Limits employee) is a really soft climber and I really like his routes because they force you to climb like him where you’re doing that reaching but you can kind of twist and you can get it.

‘Drea to Patti: And what about you? What do you consider your climbing style?

Patti: I don’t have a style. Brute force.

Jessica: That’s not true. You like to push and pull -- get into corners. You also tend to keep your body straight onto the wall. You like to be more stable. You’re also more daring than I am. I’m using more techniques and kind of tricks to get there and mom is using technique but she also jumps for things more often than I would. She goes for it and commits to a move that I find hard to commit to.

‘Drea to Patti: So, are you a jumper?

Patti: Usually, I’m a faller. (all around laughter)

Jessica to Patti: But you’re more willing to do that. I’m still working on that.

'Drea: What kind of books would you recommend?

Jessica: I haven’t read it yet but The Rock Warrior’s Way; it’s about the mental part of climbing and pushing through. Training for Climbing is a book that we've read.

‘Drea: Any reason why you chose Evolv shoes?

Jessica: Mom and I both have wide feet so we went with Evolv men shoes. Steve is a good person to talk to about shoes. Every time you see him, he has on a different pair of shoes.

Some people actually have, if they're hardcore about it, they'll actually wear one type of shoe on the right foot and a different type of shoe on their left foot. They'll have a crack up on the left side and a certain shoe is good for crack climbing but the other shoe is good for smearing. The Evolv that we have is just a good multi-purpose shoe...

I went shopping with Kam for shoes and he said, “Oh, I like this color.” The woman was like make sure it fits your foot; it doesn’t matter what color it is. So, I wouldn’t order online the first time.

‘Drea: Did you both take lead climbing class?

Jessica: Well, you have to be able to climb a 5.9 lead test up front. So, you have to climb up to the fifth clip without falling, clip in, climb above it, fall and then climb back up and finish the route without any problems and we were not climbing 5.9s consistently for awhile after we got through with the class.

And people’s definition of what the ratings are is very different from person to person. It depends on how tall you are, what your style of climbing is. So, we actually waited until there was a lead route that we could climb consistently and was relatively easy so we weren’t going to be freaking out. The two routes that are up right now, I don’t think that I would have passed the test.

It was good to hear what Jessica said about the lead routes because I attempted that 5.9 lead route this day, struggled mightily and barely made it halfway up.

‘Drea: How many times have you been lead climbing?

Patti: About two dozen.

Jessica: When you talk to different people, they have different attitudes about it (lead climbing) and I don’t think a lot of people would appreciate the attitude that I have towards lead climbing. It’s uncomfortable and that’s not what I feel like I want out of climbing – to feel that uncomfortable and to pursue it. Mentally, I think that could be a very good exercise... I think it’s more dangerous and, for me, I don’t feel like it’s necessary. I don’t like having my heart pounding the whole time. That being said, when I did lead climb and it was a route that was harder, I did feel really good when I pursued it.

Patti: …You know the consequences of not doing it (a lead route). As you’re climbing and you think, I don’t know if I can do this then you think, Oh my God, I have to or else I’m going to fall; you find the strength somehow.

Jessica: Yeah, you can’t ask for take just anywhere on the route or if you do ask for a take, you’re going to fall.

‘Drea: What about bouldering?

‘Drea To Patti: I know that you fell in a love with a little red route.

Patti: I don’t like bouldering because you climb up 12 feet and then you have to get down and I know that on my delicate ankles that would not work.

Jessica: And bouldering is more dynamic. So, it’s putting the five or six hardest moves right together. Whereas climbing is more about endurance and I don’t really like doing all of the hard stuff back-to-back. I like that it’s a puzzle where I’ll have a hard moment here and there that you have to figure out then trying to get the endurance to get through the rest of it. Bouldering is harder on your body; it’s harder on your tendons. It’s usually more of, like, a young man’s power through game but there are some women who are excellent at bouldering; there are some older people who are excellent at bouldering. It’s not my cup of tea.

‘Drea: What's the highest route you’ve climbed?

Jessica: A 5.10+ (inside). The routes are longer outside. I’ve lead outside once and it was terrifying and I vowed never to do it again. The only way that I would do lead outside again is if it were super, super easy – like grips all over the place. Here the clips are maybe about five feet apart. Outside, it’s usually about ten. If you get up to the next clip and you botch it, you’re falling 20 feet.

‘Drea: That doesn’t sound very good.

Jessica: Not my cup of tea. (laughter)

Patti’s highest route inside is a 5.10 and a 5.9 outside.

‘Drea: What do you think is good supplemental exercise for rock climbing?

Jessica and Patti: Yoga.

Jessica: I think swimming is good. You do need a certain level of strength but, at some point, muscle becomes more weight that you’re taking up. Pilates, I bet, would be good...


Note: Steph Davis just recommended Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind for someone who wanted to increase their resistance to fear.

Part I of Interview with Jessica and Patti

A Hard Moment Here and There: A Look Behind The Rock Climbing Scene, Part I of III

It unnerves me when I'm not well-armed with information. I have a need to know and, when I really started getting into rock climbing, I read a few primers and I scoured blogs. I came upon The Chalk Bag (infrequently updated) and Steph Davis' blog in which she typically responds to people who have questions for her. I was left wanting more. I wanted to get behind the rock climbing mystique. What better place to start than with two of my favorite rock climbers in the whole wide world? Here's part one of an interview with Jessica and Patti who were gracious enough to sit down with me after climbing today.


'Drea: How did you get involved with rock climbing?

Jessica: It’s something that I always wanted to try…When I was in college, a lot of my friends would come down to Upper Limits and go climbing and it never worked out; I’d be doing something and I couldn’t go at the same time they were going. Classes got in the way and I would say I’ll do it next year; I’ll do it next year and, finally, when I graduated, I really wanted to get into it and I was tired of waiting and I was like, you know what, I not going to wait for someone else to take me, I’m just going to go. So, I found out about a deal that was going on at the gym. It was a six week course, rentals included; you could climb as much as you wanted in between the classes and then you had a class every week that would teach you how to belay, climbing techniques and, ideally, would have you up to a level where you could do 5.9s which was pretty optimistic. We were doing 5.8s, I think, by the time we got done.

‘Drea: How did mom (Patti) come into the picture?

Jessica: I wanted someone to do it with me.

Patti: I guess I’m the gullible one.

Jessica: I was gonna do it no matter what and, so, I get along well with my mom...

‘Drea: Did you think she was going to participate?

Jessica: No, I didn’t think she was going to do it...

Patti: Really?

Jessica: Well, I thought there was a chance that you might try it but there was no way that I could have predicted that you would get into it and you would still be climbing three years later.

‘Drea: What did you say when she asked you?

Patti: No way. But then she said, Mom, mom, I only have fifteen minutes and there are only two spots left and then they’re going to give the spots away. We have to do it. We have to. Come on mom. I really want you do it with me. Come on, please. I said, “Okay, let me think about it and Jessica said, no, you only have 15 minutes.”

Jessica had signed up to be on a waiting list and a staff member, Aaron, notified Jessica that there were only two spots left and wanted to know if she was in or out.

‘Drea to Patti: Did you feel any pressure with fifteen minutes to decide?

Patti: Yes, yessssss. And then I thought, well, it would be some fun time to spend with Jess... I don’t care what we’re doing as long as we’re doing something together.

‘Drea: So, you said “sign me up.”

Patti: And then I paid for it too.

‘Drea: Such a nice mom.

Jessica: She is…

‘Drea: You paid to be tortured.

Patti: Yes, I did and I paid for her to be tortured too.

Jessica: And we walked in the first day and the first thing we see is someone climbing lead on the overhang and we don’t know what lead is. We don’t know what top rope is. We think it’s all the same and we’re doing what everyone else is doing and the guy falls and he swings through the middle and mom grabs me and goes “Oh my God.” Our class met upstairs where the walls aren’t quite as high and the first day was just talking about it and, the whole time, mom is just looking around.

‘Drea: And you were afraid of heights when you first started to climb?

Patti: Yes, you can feel your stomach in your toes...

Jessica: We stayed after the first time and John was working here and we started climbing and I climbed up once and got to the top and I was shaking and it was really hard to get up. I didn’t know the technique. Not the same muscles that I had been using before. It’s just something that’s really different. I’m gripping the rock…I’m gripping with 110% of my strength.

‘Drea: That was me.

Jessica: It’s normal. That’s what people do. I came down. My arms were shaking. I was like I’m done. I’m good. John came up to me and said “That’s not all you’re doing, right?”...“Well, I guess nottttttttt...”

‘Drea: What all did you learn in class?

Patti: Quiet feet (climbing with bells), all about belaying, belay devices, fireman’s rappel and we learned about using our arms, hanging low, stretching out…

Jessica: Paul was our instructor and he was really good at explaining like what’s going on where. Telling us things like if you have a two finger pocket, you don’t want to actually use your pointer and middle finger; you want to use your middle and ring finger to put in there because, even though it doesn’t feel as strong, those are tendons that go straight back into the arm whereas your pointer finger kind of curves a little bit. So, it’s not as hard on your body and you’re getting more out of it if you hang on like that.… Lots of little things like that: drop knees, gaston...


‘Drea: How long was it (rock climbing) hard?

Patti: It’s always hard. (We all burst out laughing.) That doesn’t change…

Jessica to Patti: Now, what was the point that it became less of something that you were just trying and something that you wanted to do regularly?

Patti: I’m still not sure. I guess when I figured that I’m 49. We started, I think, two weeks before my 49th birthday because then the next fall we went out (doors) for the first time and that was my 50th birthday.

‘Drea: So, it was like a birthday gift that you gave yourself?

Patti: Yeah, and I could do it. There have been people who’ve come in and couldn’t get to the top the first time and I could…and it uses all of your muscles and it’s engaging; it’s not like spending time on an elliptical and you’re going, Oh my God, it’s only been two minutes.

‘Drea: So how long did it take you to not be sore?

Patti: About three months.

Jessica: I don’t remember what it was for me.

Patti: You know the older you are the longer it takes you to recover...

‘Drea: What were you doing before climbing?

Jessica: I was going to the gym. My lower back has bothered me since high school…I carried tenors (five drums). The elliptical really helped with loosening my back up. I did some weight training, swimming. I get bored easily so it was a lot of flipping to different things but never really finding anything fun -- always being active… This is the first time that I found something physical that I looked forward to doing because, mom’s right, it is really mentally engaging. If you’re figuring out the puzzle all the time, you’re always constantly gauging can I do this? Can I not? It keeps you on your toes…

Patti: I always walked and kept active that way and I would do tapes but just before that I had started on the elliptical and I had done that for, I don’t know how many months, and I got plantar fasciitis and, so there goes walking, there goes anything. So, for awhile there, I wasn’t doing anything and it slowly came back to where I could do some stuff and I would periodically do a tape but that was about it...



Part II of Interview with Jessica and Patti

Part III of Interview with Jessica and Patti

There Is No Try...

When I got to Upper Limits, there was a group of the cutest little girls. I love it that parents have active birthday parties for their kids and judging from all of the squealing going on upstairs, they had plenty of energy to expend.

Here's my gear on a bench before I got all harnessed up -- complete with belay devices and chalk bag.

I went climbing with Jessica and we both had pretty good outings. Jessica was a bit sleepy and this guy had us cracking up. He was like: What's with the yawning? Before you know it, I'll be yawning and it'll spread through the gym. Have some coffee, man, before climbing. And, let me tell you, I think the anti-yawner was properly caffeinated.

The anti-yawner was belaying for Yoko (I know her name because he called it out several times to give her tips) and told her: There is no try; there is only do or do not. Jessica immediately looked at me and started shaking her head because I've told her that I will try before. So, be advised, never tell your belayer that you are going to try to climb a route.

I tackled my first 5.9 route, Beware of Bats. I did it awkwardly, experienced sewing machine leg, felt there was no way that I could progress up the wall at one point -- like a checker player with one piece left facing a board full of kings -- but I did it. I know those holds look innocent enough but you should see the whole route. Jessica had me laughing too. She was like Beware of Bats? Beware of 'Drea. Jessica, flattery will get you everywhere...

Today's route tally:

Truxton or Bust, 5.6
Gymnopaeda, 5.7
Sponge Bob, 5.7
Bright Idea, 5.8 (3x's)
Face Plant, 5.8
Beware of Bats, 5.9

The Coolness

Me: Okay. I just checked. The run (St. Patrick's) is at 9:00 a.m. tomorrow and the parade is at noon...

Patti: Sunday at 10?

Me: Cool. I'll be there.

Patti: Cool… me too

As it turns out, the decision to go climbing on Sunday instead of Saturday was a good one. Daylight Saving Time worked in our favor since there was nary a creature stirring except for the Boy Scouts who were being taught on the upper level at Upper Limits.

We had our pick of routes and no waiting for the first hour and I was ready to climb since I hadn't been in a week. Well, kind of. I really enjoy rock climbing but sometimes I think, dang, when you get out of the 5.7 zone, those routes can be arduous. What did Eleanor Roosevelt say?

You must do the thing that you think you cannot do.

I'm sure that she wasn't talking about rock climbing but...

Today's route tally:

5.6, Truxton or Bust
5.8, Bright Idea
5.7, Gymnopaeda
5.8, Face Plant
5.7, Unnamed
5.8, Rainbow Bright
5.8, JW
5.9, One Liner (Attempted)
5.6, Unnamed (Ascended and Down Climbed 3x's)

The laps on the last route made a woman out of me and I don't think that I could have ascended another route even if I had wanted to.

Rip Van 'Drea

I went rock climbing and didn't know how it would go since I wrecked my body during a five day span. I took it easy on Thursday and Friday and I was hoping that I would be feeling up to speed.

Well, I could only do the simplest routes (5.6) with ease. I tussled with every other route and I was even getting tired of myself asking for takes.

On the other hand, Patti must have eaten multiple bowls of Wheaties (or new Wheaties Fuel) because she was feeling it. She has wanted to tackle this one 5.9 route that is lead climb only. This guy, Jeremy, actually climbed and left the rope so Patti got a chance to climb it and she almost made it to the top; it was a valiant effort, I tell you. I think Patti did a total of nine routes including one bouldering route. She later revealed her secret: at least three cups of coffee before climbing.


I came home from climbing, ate lunch and was thinking about what to get into next but I just couldn't keep my head up. I lay down and got up about four hours later. The sun had gone down and everything. So much for my theory that I'm not much of a napper.

I like the way I looked in my new workout top today ($7.99 at Marshalls).

Note to self: do not purchase anymore workout attire for awhile.

Or, shall I say, I like the way my upper body is coming along? I've basically developed it doing the upper body portion of 10 Minute Solution: Fitness Ball Workouts and with rock climbing.

Who knew a collar bone was underneath there?

Two Step Platforms Are Better Than One

Okay, so I saw this tweet from Bob Harper this morning. Do I really need a lot of incentive to do crazy things? Negative.

How is it that I got up before 8:00 a.m. and still managed to be late for a 10:30 a.m. Step class?

I guess that I do like to get up gently which is why I have a moonbeam clock which flashes light to wake you up.

I went back to Stacey's class which I really enjoy love. Only, I don't get to go often since her classes are at 10:30 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.

Stacey is calm and friendly and she has easy steps but you still get a good workout. In fact, she might want to consider naming her class Step For Dummies. Stacey did something today that I've never seen before. She used two step platforms. Platform one was Home and the one to the right was Away. We left just enough space between Home and Away to do jumping jacks. I absolutely loved the stomp move that she incorporated and I don't think that I was the only one. Stacey also had me chuckling with her curl and repeat command since it sounded like we were in a salon.

I also liked that Stacey invited questions and feedback. One class member told her of hip discomfort when she steps and Stacey asked her if she wanted to stretch. First class...

When I finished with Step class, I made a pit stop at home, grabbed a Clif Kid bar and headed to Upper Limits to climb a few routes. Remember what Trainer Bob said now.

I didn't have a belay partner so I used the auto-belays and, because I suddenly got a little freaked out by being up 30 feet up with no person on the ground to lower me, I climbed down every route. All that to say, I'm beat and my hand calluses are tender from back-to-back rock climbing stints.

The moral of this story: take what Trainer Bob has to say with a grain of salt.

When Your Grip Strength Is At Its Best

I'm jonesing to go rock climbing today but there's a bouldering competition going on at Upper Limits; so, no dice. My jones will have to wait until tomorrow.

I've been reading Eric Horst's Training for Climbing. A lot of the advice applies across disciplines: strengthen your core, be relaxed, eat properly, get enough sleep etc. Chapter seven, Personal Training Programs, had me chuckling:

As a final note, the belief that physical performance tends to be worse during menstruation is not absolute. While the menstrual cycle's affect on performance varies widely among individuals and from sport to sport, at least one study has shown that grip strength was greater during the actual menstrual phase (Davis 1991).

No doubt, the grip is stronger. I know that I've wanted to put my hands around some necks, instead of holds, during that time.

In the same chapter, there's also a section devoted to special considerations for females and "juniors." Horst mentions teenager Tori Allen, who is already an accomplished, award-winning climber.

Here's a video from a segment that the Discovery Channel did on Allen.



Needless to say, Allen is athletically gifted.

Maybe Slower Than A Sloth

I am in awe of the human body.

Yesterday was my first time making it not only over the arête but up the dang And You're Ready Now?, the 5.8b route that I have been trying to ascend for what seems like forever.

I wondered if my muscles would remember. They did. Unbelievable. There were so many aborted attempts to get over the arête. At one point, I felt like a 12-month old trying to stand up but I couldn't stand up in order to reach a crucial hold -- even though I knew the power was in my legs and that climbing is best done relying on one's legs.

And You're Ready Now? is still a challenge but getting over the arête doesn't seem nearly as onerous a task as it did before.

As I was waiting for the route to open, this guy climbed And You're Ready Now? I was captivated by his ascent. He moved up the route like a sloth -- maybe slower than a sloth.

Patti was telling me that's how great climbers ascend a route. When Patti and Jessica took their six week introduction to rock climbing course, one exercise included wearing bells on their shoes with the goal being to make as little noise as possible while ascending a route.

Right now, I'm bullish about my ascents -- not intentionally; that's just the way it is right now. The sloth has been climbing for four years. The whippersnapper started the sport when he was 18.

I climbed eight routes:

5.7, Sol (Warm-Up Route)
5.6, Truxton or Bust
5.7, Gymnopaeda
5.7, Unnamed
5.8, Bright Idea
5.8, Face Plant
5.8b, And You're Ready Now?
5.6, Sunshine (Warm-Down Route)

Climb X Media has a series of videos featuring accomplished climbers. Lynn Hill's main advice? Patience. In this video, she scales a rock that looks totally unscalable.

Hoping That My Muscles Will Remember

The final piece of the puzzle is in place. I scoured the internet for a harness and decided to get one from Upper Limits and I'm glad that I did. The harnesses have instructions but there's nothing like a human telling you that you need to double back on your buckles or that you can belay and climb on the auto-belay through the belay loop but for climbing you need to have two points of contact for your rope.

I also got to try on the harness and climb in it before I made my decision.

Behold, my Black Diamond Momentum Al harness (XL size):




At first, it felt weird not climbing in the rental Yates -- probably because I've been renting and wearing the Yates exclusively. I should have invested in a harness a long time ago but I wasn't sure if I'd be really bitten by the rock climbing bug. And, oh boy, have I been bitten. I miss the wall almost as soon as I step out of the gym.

I finally managed to get up the 5.8b (a.k. a. #1 nemesis) And You're Ready Now? route. It took me many takes and I don't really know how I made it over the arête but I did; I'm hoping that my muscles will remember. I was sapped after that 5.8b and could barely muster enough energy to make it up less demanding routes. Nevertheless, I was quite satisfied to have finally made it up And You're Ready Now? Yay!!!

Here are some videos about how to look for a harness and how to put one on.





On a final note, looking at my, woo hoo, smaller butt makes me think about Greta over at Big Bottom Blogger.

And, of course, Da Butt also comes to mind.

Strong Enough: Month-End Review, January

Yesterday I got an e-mail with the subject: climbing. early. sunday.

Patti: Meet at the gym at 10:00 tomorrow, ok?

Me: Roger that.

Upper Limits is having their annual membership sale so the joint was jumping.

Now, I have two memberships. One at Upper Limits and one at a regular fitness club which doesn't have a pool.

I warmed up on Truxton or Bust, a 5.6 route then Patti suggested I try to tackle my #1 nemesis, And You're Ready Now?, a 5.8b since it's best to hit the hardest routes early in the game.

Patti actually had a grout-induced blister in the middle of her hand so her husband, Mike, was my belay partner. Patti did do a 5.9 that didn't require too much gripping. Ha, I wasn't injured and could not have done it.

So, Patti and Mike are coaching me then a couple, Bruce and Megan, came along. Bruce said that And You're Ready Now? has been very friendly to him. Bruce was giving me excellent pointers and even climbed over the arête several times to show me a way to do it. Bruce talked about balance, technique and was kind enough to tell me that he knew that I was strong enough to do it by the way I was holding onto the butterfly hold with my arms. He also stuck around for quite awhile suggesting different holds for my feet and/or hands and Patti told me that half of the game is psychological...

Later on, I moved to Face Plant (5.8). It's not a route that I do smoothly but I remember a time when I couldn't make it over that arête at all. Mike told me that there's not that much difference between Face Plant and And You're Ready Now? So, hopefully, I'll make it over the hump one day.

I love it how everyone is looking up -- except for me since I was tying in and, sometimes, I get amnesia about how to tie a figure eight knot.






I continued to take the quote variety is the spice of life to heart this month:

10 Minute Solution: Fitness Ball Workouts

Firm Flat Abs, 2 x's

Total Body Fat Burner, 2 x's

Ultra Stretch, 2 x's

10 Minute Solution: Kickbox Bootcamp

Basic Training, 1 x

Fat Burning Blast, 3 x's

10 Minute Solution: Tone Trouble Zones!

Stretching, 7 x's

Arc Trainer, 1 x

Boot Camp Class, 1 x

Cardio and Muscle Class, 3 x's

Elliptical Trainer, 1 x

Rock Climbing, 6 x's

StairMaster, 4 x's

Step Class, 4 x's

Swimming, 2 x's

Treadmill, 11 x's

Walking Pilates, 1 x

And I'm hoping to keep rockin' steady in February...

To Kill A Two-Headed Muscle

Patti and I decided to go rock climbing at 1 today since last Saturday it was crowded in the a.m. then thinned out around lunch time. It was still super crowded. Plus, there were some classes going on and, once again, my comfort routes were roped off or otherwise occupied.

I climbed the following routes:

5.6, Truxton or Bust
5.6, 5x
5.7, Sol (twice)
5.8, Bright Idea
5.8, JW
5.8, Face Plant
5.8b, And You're Ready Now? (About five attempts but no cigar)

I should rename And You're Ready Now? the biceps killer because it had the biceps in my right arm smarting for three days and there's new throbbing going on now. As I approached the route, I had butterflies similar to the ones that appeared when I was taking swimming lessons and my teacher wanted me to swim the length of the pool doing the front crawl. It's so frustrating because I know I have plenty of power in my legs but I just couldn't get my feet on these two holds that I needed to get over the arête.

When I approached my longtime nemesis Face Plant, Patti told me to just keep climbing, to not slow down and to have fun. I surprised myself by marching up Face Plant. I don't know how much fun I had though.

When I was headed up JW, I was waiting until a kid who was using the auto-belay got up to a certain point.

Patti: I think you'll be okay.

Me: Have you seen the way I climb all over (i.e. rainbow climbing) this route?

Patti: Yes, I belay for you. I've seen how you climb all over the route.

Ha, ha...

I headed up and managed not to collide with the kid.

As we were waiting for a 5.9 to clear for Patti, she said that she wished she had started climbing as a kid.

Me: I wish that I had learned to swim as a kid.

Me: I wish that I had taken Spanish classes more seriously...

As we were leaving, this pre-teen told me: I saw you rock climbing, you're good. That was so sweet of her to tell me.

Sometimes I forget about the kids up in the balcony area until I smell pizza or see balloons. I hope that the pre-teen will climb for many years to come at Upper Limits or at some other rock climbing joint.

Here's a father teaching his kid how to do a drop knee maneuver. If lil' shorty can do a drop knee, I should be able to do one too. Shouldn't I?

And You're Ready Now?

It's amazing what a crowded Upper Limits will force me to do. I had already climbed Truxton or Bust (5.6), A Bright Idea (5.8), An Early Winter's Frost (5.7), Face Plant (5.8), Sol (5.7) and a 5.8 with simply JW on it.

Patti: Where to?

Me: I can't believe that I'm saying this but the red route i.e. the And You're Ready Now?, a 5.8b route

I knew that I was facing an uphill battle but there was, literally, nowhere else to go.

I made one attempt. Went back down to get some tips from Patti who suggested that I do a drop knee, a concept that I don't quite get yet. Patti asked Jamie, an Upper Limits staff member, if he would explain the concept. Jamie was demure -- said that he wasn't a good explainer but he did give me some good tips. He said that he tells people to turn their hip. He also told me that I needed to get my hip into the wall. Yeah, I have a problem with my butt being pushed out when I do planks too.

Furthermore, Jamie advised me to kind of squat with my legs and have straight arms when I was, well, not climbing or at a pausing point. And I'm thinking I can squat; I've been doing that a lot in Cardio and Muscle class.

Jamie also said that it's counterintuitive but you should not be climbing energetically. And that's me -- in a nutshell. I tend to attack things when I take on something (like an elephant in a china shop).

I attempted And You're Ready Now? about five times but, apparently, I wasn't ready. LOL.

I was thinking about buying a chalk bag on Etsy but I was worried about the size. Earlier, I asked Patti if she remembered how tall her bag was and she said that I could check it out when we went climbing today. Surprise, surprise. Patti handed me a chalk bag and chalk ball from Jessica -- what a nice surprise.


Now, I just need to get a harness and I'll be an official rock climber.

In addition to calluses, I got another rock climbing memento from a drop knee of a different sort. I do need to be a little less energetic...



Check out this chica dropping knees all over the place.

The Forgotten Joy of Props

I had a notion to go to the gym but it's so cold that the thought of bundling up and exposing myself to single digit temperatures was just so unappealing. Today is rock climbing day and I usually pair rock climbing with a stint on the treadmill. Since rock climbing was slated for 4:30 p.m., I decided to do some 10 Minute Solution stuff in the morning.

I chose to do three 10 Minute Solution segments, including the Ultra Stretch on the fitness ball. I had forgotten how good props feel. I love doing cardio with a fitness ball and stretching? Oh my. I love when you're practically doing a backhand stand with your back curved around the ball. Nirvana, I tell you.

Check out what I mean by nirvana at 0:36:



Although I had pre-rocking climbing jitters, I had a good outing. I don't know why I still get jitters seeing that I've been many times now; plus, I enjoy it.

It's so frigid in The Lou that the water in the fountain at Upper Limits
was frozen. It was almost unbearable climbing without the good stuff. I had water in my car but I didn't feel like getting dressed again and exchanging one pair of shoes for another so I just sucked it up and climbed while parched.

I tried a new 5.8 red route today with not much success. I wanted to see if I could make it over the arête, at least. I tried about four times. Patti was giving me tips: hip into the wall, reach with the left hand, foot over here which made me flash back to swimming: blow out all of your air, chest down, oxygen deficit, one goggle out of the water...Ironically, Saturday used to be swimming day.

I asked Patti what was the most routes she had done in one day. She didn't give me a number but did say that one time they had spent four hours at the gym and that you do get your second wind which reminded me of Run Fatboy Run where Dennis hits the wall but breaks through it.

You Should Be Drinking Not Climbing or Month-End Review, December

One of my friends was taunting me by waving a bowl of Hershey's chocolate in my vicinity; she, essentially, beckoned me in a voice that said chill out about the sweet stuff.

I decided to retaliate in my own little way and asked her if she wanted to go rock climbing after our half day at work. She looked at me in horror when another associate actually voiced his horror. You should be drinking not climbing. Oh well, to each his or her own.

Plus, the taunter failed to realize that Hershey's would not make me cave. Kinder Bueno? Yes. Hershey's? No...

As I was belaying for Jessica, one of the Upper Limits folks came to give us the countdown to closure. What? We thought the gym was closing at 4 p.m. instead of 2 p.m. Can you say rock climbing interruptus?

Before I left the gym, though, I was able to make it up the 5.8 Face Plant route. So, I'm able to climb that route on every other outing. Ha.

I headed to the bank with the intention of going from there straight to the gym and squeaking in because, clearly, I hadn't worked out enough but, dang it, I didn't have my tennis shoes.

I headed by the house, ate a few Wasa crackers and hummus and headed back out. When I got to the gym, there were no signs about early closure and I was told that there would be no early closure. Hmmm, I could potentially play Biggest Loser contestant and really get my exercise in today.

When I got to the locker room, I discovered that I did not have my MP3 player. Ironically, I did not have the energy to put on my street clothes and go back to the car to retrieve my tunes. I blame my misplaced MP3 player on too many bags: bag with rock climbing gear, bag with work gear and another gym bag with my regular workout stuff. I did a little self-talk and told myself that I could gut it out for at least 30 minutes without the television or music. Almost the whole time, It Takes Two, was on loop in my head. It's all the fault of that goofy little flick, The Proposal.

Here's how things played out this month. I deliberately set aside more time for stretching which felt good...

10 Minute Solution: Fitness Ball Workouts (Upper Body), 1 x

10 Minute Solution: Kickbox Bootcamp (Fat Burning Blast), 1 x

10 Minute Solution: Tone Trouble Zones! (Stretching), 3 x's

10 Minute Solution: Yoga (Flexibility and Relaxation), 1 x

Adaptive Motion Trainer, 3 x's

Crunch: Candlelight Yoga, 1 x

Drills To Make You Sweat (Class), 1 x

Rock Climbing, 6 x's

StairMaster, 3 x's

Stationary Bike, 1 x

Step and Muscle (Class), 3 x's

Swimming, 6 x's

Treadmill (with bouts of jogging), 14 x's

Best sound of the day: Primal screams from a female lead climber as she made an ascent.

Honorable mention: Me. I'm told that I was making Serena Williams-like sounds going up the Face Plant route.

Phrase of the day: Amazonian Toes -- a male to his female friend after a discussion about rock climbing shoes.


And the song of the day?????????

My Hamstrings Say No

Cut my fingernails, grabbed my new rock climbing kicks and headed to the gym.

Although not an excellent outing, today was a pretty good day for rock climbing.

Afterwards, I headed to the fitness club to hit the treadmill because while rock climbing torches a lot of calories, you don't spend a whole lot of time on the routes. Although, I do wonder how many calories are burned during belaying.

I also did some stretching because my hamstrings were tight after doing a 10 Minute Solution total body toning yesterday.

RC and swimming always leave me wanting more.

I feel like Aaron in that Seinfeld episode, The Raincoats.

AARON: I could've done more. I could've done so much more.

I feel as if I could head back to Upper Limits right now but


my hamstrings say no.