Patti and I decided to go rock climbing at 1 today since last Saturday it was crowded in the a.m. then thinned out around lunch time. It was still super crowded. Plus, there were some classes going on and, once again, my comfort routes were roped off or otherwise occupied.
I climbed the following routes:
5.6, Truxton or Bust 5.6, 5x 5.7, Sol (twice) 5.8, Bright Idea 5.8, JW 5.8, Face Plant 5.8b, And You're Ready Now? (About five attempts but no cigar)
I should rename And You're Ready Now? the biceps killer because it had the biceps in my right arm smarting for three days and there's new throbbing going on now. As I approached the route, I had butterflies similar to the ones that appeared when I was taking swimming lessons and my teacher wanted me to swim the length of the pool doing the front crawl. It's so frustrating because I know I have plenty of power in my legs but I just couldn't get my feet on these two holds that I needed to get over the arĂȘte.
When I approached my longtime nemesis Face Plant, Patti told me to just keep climbing, to not slow down and to have fun. I surprised myself by marching up Face Plant. I don't know how much fun I had though.
When I was headed up JW, I was waiting until a kid who was using the auto-belay got up to a certain point.
Patti: I think you'll be okay.
Me: Have you seen the way I climb all over (i.e. rainbow climbing) this route?
Patti: Yes, I belay for you. I've seen how you climb all over the route.
Ha, ha...
I headed up and managed not to collide with the kid.
As we were waiting for a 5.9 to clear for Patti, she said that she wished she had started climbing as a kid.
Me: I wish that I had learned to swim as a kid.
Me: I wish that I had taken Spanish classes more seriously...
As we were leaving, this pre-teen told me: I saw you rock climbing, you're good. That was so sweet of her to tell me.
Sometimes I forget about the kids up in the balcony area until I smell pizza or see balloons. I hope that the pre-teen will climb for many years to come at Upper Limits or at some other rock climbing joint.
Here's a father teaching his kid how to do a drop knee maneuver. If lil' shorty can do a drop knee, I should be able to do one too. Shouldn't I?
Inhale as early as possible and for as long as possible.
Try to keep one eye in the water.
Keep your head on the same plane as your body.
from Freestyle Breathing Technique video
If it is in the wrong position, soon everything else will be, too.
In swimming as in life, you gotta get your head in the right place.
from Breathing While Swimming by Coach Dee, Excel Triathletes Blogspot
The greater the distance between your finger tips and your toes, the better.
Have Goggles, Will Swim, The Complete Idiot's Guide to Triathlon Training
In proper freestyle swimming, the head moves with the body to take the breath; it never moves independently. You don’t want any lifting of the chin to take a breath. You don’t want any looking forward or to the side of the pool to take a breath. You want to rotate your head in line with the your body…
Bob Bowman
Indulgences
Alexia Oven Fries (Olive Oil, Rosemary, Garlic)
Almond Butter, Creamy With Sea Salt (Trader Joe's)
Banana Split SO Delicious Non-Dairy Frozen Dessert Minis (Made With Coconut Milk & Agave Sweetened Center)
Bunny Grahams (Annie's Homegrown)
Chocolate-Covered Peppermint Sticks (Bogdon)
O'Coco's Organic Baked Crisps
Soy Creamy Mini Chocolate Sandwiches Non-Dairy Frozen Dessert (Trader Joe's)
TLC Banana Chocolate Chip Soft n' Chewy Bars (Kashi)
Kryptonite
Bahlsen Truffet (Meringue Biscuit with Cocoa Cream Filling and Swiss Milk Chocolate)
N.Y.L. (New York Laundry): Relaxing, Exercise, Shopping, A Fun Time, Being Seen In, Anything
Navy Blue Speedo Ultraback (RIP: Jan. 2009 to July 2009)
Steamfresh Specially Seasoned Southwestern Corn
Trader Joe's Multigrain & Flaxseed Water Crackers
Wasa thin & crispy rosemary flatbread
Mantra
The Best Life Diet is not a diet in the usual sense of the word. You don't go on it, then off it as the term diet typically implies. It is, instead, a diet in the traditional sense of the word: a way of eating - for life. It's based on a well-balanced regimen of interesting, satisfying, nutrient-rich, and easy-to-find-and-prepare foods...
Roasted Red Potatoes With Chive Butter Sauce (Steamfresh Lightly Sauced)
More Climbing Advice
To climb fluidly and under control, you must settle in and relax.
from How To Rock Climb! by John Long
Put your weight on them (feet), trust them, and utilize them to save your strength by resting on them... Feel stuck? Look for a foot hold, exhale, and move to it.
from Mock Rock: The Guide To Indoor Climbing
Motivation
I'm going to give it all that I have then I'm gonna give it all that I don't have.