You Are Not Complaining

There is a Cuban woman who works in my building. Because I did not take Spanish seriously in school, I am not fluent and she is not fluent in English but we manage to understand one other. Today, she placed a concoction next to me and all I understood was con leche.

I've never had rice pudding but because of my Monday malaise, I downed it. About five minutes later a coworker, who didn't know about the pudding, told another one about my willpower. So much for that...

Got to kickboxing class and didn't see my regular sparring partner. Bummer but when Dawn says Pair up, there's no time to dwell on anything; it's go time. I paired up with McGwire 25 who was already tired from a hike. I need to get back to hiking or basics -- whatever you want to call it.

McGwire 25 had me cracking up. She told me that I could not hurt her. I do this (hold mitts) for brother all the time. He's the reason that I took Taekwondo. He used to stuff me into pillowcases but then he took Taekwondo too.

At some point we hear You are not complaining. Many of us send out a silent message to the complainer to cease because we don't want Dawn to intensify the workout.

McGwire 25 and I are near Ashley and Ashley has a black belt and it's such a pleasure to watch her spar. Love her stance and intensity.

At the end of class, we learn another self-defense move -- what to do if someone has you trapped underneath them...

I'm still thinking about how Saturday's climb was such an eye-opening experience for Gloria and me. During Sunday's yoga practice, Gloria talked about using your inner guidance system to know when to breathe and when to move whether it's during yoga, climbing or whatever.

Later on, when we (and I use the word we loosely) barn-doored half moon pose, I had to tap into my inner guidance system.

Thumb Lock

...Your Brain on Chalk

Squared off with this route and couldn’t get past the second hold so I came down and tried again. Still couldn’t get past the second hold so I came down again and again and again.

I had, basically, been bouldering and had tired myself out. After untying my rope, this guy told me:

It was within your reach… You were so focused on that one hold…If you had used a thumb lock  you would have been able to get past that point but you were holding it like you were holding onto the handlebars of a bike…And it wouldn’t hurt if you didn’t have fingernails*…You can do it! 

The advisor’s partner told me that if it was any consolation, he didn’t like that route and it was reassuring knowing that he is a better climber and also found the route awkward but what gave me a lot of comfort was that someone took the time to make suggestions and cheer me on.

*Cracks me up when really skilled climbers call you out for having too long fingernails.

Lessons I Learned from Rock Climbers

Lesson One
Didn't feel particularly like climbing yesterday but one of my buddies wanted to go. I wasn't overly sore from Monday's kettlebell beat down but still didn't know if I would have the wherewithal to pull myself up the wall.

As I'm getting ready to tie in and climb a route, I notice this woman a couple of routes over and her foot is slipping off the arête but it's because she had a boot on her foot!

It was inspiring to see her climb. I even asked if I could take a picture and it didn't matter that I was without my camera. I borrowed my climbing partner's phone in my shameless pursuit of documentation...

One of These Shoes Is Not Like The Other

Lesson Two
I tried out a new route and had to hoist all of my fabulousness over an arête. The guys who had just finished with the route watched my progress.

David, my climbing partner, told me that I wasn't using my legs and, yes, I will try to muscle my way up a route instead of using my legs.

I got stuck right at the arête and asked David to lower me. Russ, one of the watchers told me: You were right there; your hand was inches away. It was like you didn't even want to to reach it. I've done that too -- told myself I can't do it.

So, I got myself back up on the route and over the arête; it was not pretty at all but I got myself further up the wall than I had anticipated.


Lesson Three

I talked to another one of my climbing partners who said that it would be at least another month before he is able to climb because of a lingering back issue.

I asked him if he had tried any complementary therapies. Chris told me that walking has helped and is actually considered a form of Chigung. So, yes, he said; I suppose I am doing complementary therapy.

Trouble From The Get-Go

My climbing has been so infrequent that this toddler has better moves than I do.



I love the way that the toddler dismisses the toys. She also has a pretty nice drop knee...

Cindy and Val joined Patti and me for a climbing outing and, now, they're able to scratch rock climbing off of their bucket lists. They did so well and had a lot more stamina than I did on my first time out.

Val Ascending Her Very First Route

Summit Consultation

I was proud of myself as well because I decided to climb a route that I knew was trouble from the get-go. I would say that it owned me and I did say as much when I came down but it didn't since I hung in there and ascended the route even though it took me countless attempts.

Had an opportunity to scratch anything off of your bucket list lately?

The Lowdown and The Poet Laureate of Rock Climbing

My rock climbing gym opened a new location. There's:

The Old Crappy Gym and
The Monstrosity

Mike, Patti and I hit The Old Crappy Gym first since the new one wasn't slated to open until noon for the grand opening celebration. Mike and Patti started lead climbing and, since the gym was pretty empty, I wondered if I should attempt the lead climbing test again. As soon as I started thinking about it, my heart starting beating faster despite Patti telling me to stay calm.

I went and got a short rope to practice on one route and I knew that I needed to take the test while I still had something in the tank. I went to the front desk to announce my intention.

Dude comes over and gives me the lowdown:

No back clipping

No z-clipping

No missed clips

No rest

The only time I will be allowed to rest is after the fall

Sure, no problem, and thanks for reminding me to relax.

I thought the whole "no rest" thing was a bit much because I see lead climbers resting all the time. Does taking a rest mean that you're not a safe climber?

I take a deep breath and, as my mother likes to say, there's no experience like bought experience. I do not miss the second clip this time and there's a certain amount of relief knowing that I'm on belay after the second clip.

I'm told that when I get to the hold with a split in it -- above the fifth clip, I need to fall and I don't hesitate because I just want to get it over with. I let go and I'm so pleased when I stop falling. I get my rest and I chalk up and I hear Patti from below shouting out encouragement but I'll be damned if a rock that I've been able to step up on (from the side) gives me problems and, that's it, the test is over because I can't step up on that one rock.

After the fall, I thought about how close I was to the top and I kept thinking no mistakes; don't blow it. Even though I didn't get my lead certification, I feel much better about this test than the last one and I don't think that I should have been "failed" because of one misstep. I don't think that I've ever seen a lead climber ascend a route flawlessly or without a hiccup but the staff member said that he was "failed" for a similar misstep. Whatever...

We head out to The Monstrosity and I'm glad that we went to The Old Crappy Gym first because the new gym was jam packed since there was free climbing for everyone.


Leah wrote this Macbeth inspired poem after my first attempt at the lead climbing test.

Clipping, and clipping, and clipping,
Creeps in this petty pace from day to day
To the last attempt of leaded climb,
And all our yesterdays have lighted there
The way to dusty falls. Out, out, brief misclip!
The test but a walking shadow, a poor player
That struts and frets its hour upon the stage
And then is heard no more: it is a tale
Told by our eventual victor, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.

And Leah was so in love with the new gym that I told her I felt an How Do I Love Thee? inspired piece was surely on the horizon and it was:

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
I love thee to the new breadth and height
My limbs can reach, when climbing out of sight
For the endless routes to flash and onsight.
I love thee to the level of frictions'
Most quiet help, by sun and fluorescent light.
I love thee sorely, as Crossfit women Might;
I love thee elegantly, to backstep on the crag.
I love thee with the passion put to use
In my old gym, and with my harness tight.
I love thee with crimps I seemed to use
With my heel hooks,–I love thee short of breath,
Smiles, smears, of step throughs!–and, if routes choose,
I shall love thee better after the arete

.

I've enjoyed all of Leah's poems but felt that she really nailed the last line in "How Do I Love Thee?." I've officially dubbed her The Poet Laureate of rock climbing...

Mind Over...Paranoid Troglodyte

It's been so long since I've climbed that I had time to soak my Just Do It bag -- the one that I carry my climbing equipment in.

After my gym card was scanned, I immediately asked for a rope. See, I've been thinking about Paranoid Troglodyte or, as Patti likes to call it, The Orange Route. I also think of it as Sophie's Orange Route since she set it.

Paranoid Troglodyte is the lead test route. The last time that I practiced lead climbing, I was only able to clip in on two quickdraws. Paranoid... is a gnarly route that I can climb on top rope but add the element of lead climbing and, well, the gnarly route just got even gnarlier.

I haven't been climbing in two weeks because every body's schedules are all over the place but Patti and I managed to get on the same page today.

I warmed up first then I headed straight for Paranoid Troglodyte. I stopped many times but I was able to clip in all the way to the top.

See, I've been talking to myself -- telling myself that I need to relax and breathe more; you know, tap into that whole yoga thing that I've been doing.

I climbed Paranoid...again and again. The third time I could barely hold on but I made it to the top.

Patti gave me good tips. She noticed that I was bunching up my arm when I went to clip when I should have a straight arm. She also gave me technique tips about matching feet and hands -- a difficult maneuver for my chubby little hands and feet. I also got a reminder, from Patti, that you are pretty much bouldering until you secure yourself in at the second clip. In addition, I had forgotten that you need to give the lead climber slack when they're starting off. Of course, this is the opposite when top rope climbing...

At this point in the program, it started to remind me of front crawl breathing: arm reaching as far as possible, chest down, dispense with all air before you turn your head to take another one. Information overload.

I practiced more lead climbing and met my match on the final route of the day. I started z-clipping and back clipping. Why? My gym is replacing quickdraws and the new ones suck. I don't like the gates on them at all. I just pray that they won't take the quickdraws on Paranoid Troglodyte down before I've had a chance to take my lead climbing test.

Rock climbing has been in the news recently. I shared this article with my rock climbing buddies and Mike responded:

Thanks for the article. Now that it is becoming cool, do we have to put it aside?

Heehee...

The Rat Grew on Me

I showed up for Lead Climbing 101, a class that my rock climbing gym offers and while I was not a bundle of nerves, I was definitely nervous because, first, a second waiver was placed before me.

Everyone gets the rock climbing is inherently dangerous warning in books, gear, videos etc. but lead climbing is, apparently, and inherently even more dangerous...

It was an hour before we actually hit the wall, though, because we went over practical information about how to check one's rope for wear and tear, how to flake the rope, the anatomy of quickdraws and lead belaying which is definitely different from top rope belaying.

And we practiced clipping which didn't prevent me from back clipping when I actually started climbing.

I've actually forgotten what Nick, one of our instructors, said was the cardinal sin of lead climbing but I do know that I committed another cardinal sin -- lack of communication.

I was so focused on clipping that I forgot to tell Mike when I was clipping which is not cool; I should have been consistently communicating with my belayer, the most important person in my life when climbing.

It was a lot of information to take in about the delicate balance of giving enough slack but not too much or not pulling the climber off the wall because you have the rope too tight. I kept forgetting that a lead climber needs about three feet of rope when starting a route.

I didn't forget that you need to spot the climber in order to control their fall if they should happen to separate from the wall when starting his or her ascent and I didn't forget to holler rope when pulling the rope down to prevent some unsuspecting bystander from walking by and getting popped in the head.

You can give a climber a hard or soft fall. Through no skill of my own, I was able to give Mike a soft fall when he detached from the wall.

Trisha (co-instructor) asked for me to take a fall when I got past the fifth clip. It took a few moments for me to get composed which prompted Trisha to say trust your belayer, trust your belayer.

In my mind, it had nothing to do with trust. I know that Mike's a great belayer but I've never liked roller coaster rides. When I finally let go, I kept waiting to stop falling and I eventually did.

What can I say? Never trust an instructor with a rat tattoo on her arm. Actually, the rat grew on me.

The Making of Smiles

My response to This Emotional Life's tweet:

Re: what made me smile ths weekend: pool time, a woman's hat & umbrlla at Race for Cure, my climbing partners' camaraderie.

Other things that made me smile: Hazira's How did you like the movie? after I fell asleep on My Wife's An Actress and J.J. Barea's mismatch against LeBron James which resulted in a offensive foul against James.

Patti's encouragement on Sunday definitely made me smile on the inside. It took me five attempts to get over the arête on a route. Finally, after pulling my hips into the wall (Patti's suggestion) and abs in, I was able to elevate myself, grab this one hold and get over the hump.

Patti's observation on my arête work: Nothing's wrong with your technique. Later on, she gave me a compliment on my burgeoning technique in general. Leah said that I was ready for lead climbing and jokingly put her money where her mouth is by saying that she was going to put a down payment on the class for me.

The lead climbing class, as it turns out, is full so Mike (Leah's husband) and I, are on the waiting list.


Route Tally for Sunday, June 11th:

Baby Steps, 5.7

Dig In, (Fifth Time Is The Charm), 5.9

Duchess of Cambridge, 5.7

Paranoid Troglodyte , 5.9

Paranoid Troglodyte (Halfway), 5.9

Pinkerton , 5.8

Static Report, 5.9

Summertime, 5.9

Leah said that any day that one is able to climb is a good day. I'm going to say that I had a very good day since I spent almost four hours at the gym. Half of it was climbing and half of it was yakking. It was enough climbing, though, that my abs, armpits, calves, forearms, sidewalls and triceps are feeling the love.

What made you smile this weekend?

Withdrawal...Blogger-Style

I was gonna blog yesterday but, um, Blogger was down. An unbelievable amount of people were on Twitter going through withdrawal and the shaking was palpable.



I went climbing yesterday and our posse was so sizable that we played musical partners.

I've been feeling ready to take on lead climbing but, of course, there's no class this month. Still, I borrowed a rope to practice but I didn't do well with clipping and, because I was nervous, I was climbing like a bull -- not the best way to climb at all. The awkward clipping also shook my confidence.

There's a part of me that feels like mental toughness is missing from my rock climbing game. New posse member, Leah, hasn't been climbing much longer than I have and she rocked a 5.10c. but it's probably not in my best interest to compare myself to other climbers and just not a good thing to do in general...

Wynne told us that she is moving to the West Coast. She also told me that she wished she had done an interview with me.

Last year I asked Wynne if she would consider sitting down to chit chat and she said that, although it didn't seem like it, she is an introvert and declined the offer.

Fair enough, Wynne, and hope to see you in The Lou again at some point so that I can hear you say I'm done when you've reached the top.*



*Since some of us were new to each other, we discussed rock climbing terminology. Generally, people say take when they get to the top of a route but Wynne likes to say I'm done...

The Box and The Buddha

Patti alerts me about the time of the St. Patrick's Day Run and Parade. I leave the house early but I still get stuck in logjam after logjam. The rock climbing gym has a nice parking lot but I cannot get to it because street after street is blocked off.

I come very close to turning around and going home but I finally park in a spot that I'm not entirely sure is legal and I make my way through the crowd and hike to Upper Limits. Well, I wanted to walk after rock climbing but the order got reversed.

I'm thirty minutes late but I see Jessica go into the door right before me. I'm annoyed and Jessica wants to know what my anger alert level is. Orange and red are running neck and neck.

The good part: there are not a lot of climbers in the gym.

I climb Jack and the Bean Stalk and the part that has always given me trouble, doesn't. I climb The End of 2010 and I make it further up than last time -- before I need to ask for a take.

Jessica: Where to?

Me: I can't believe that I'm saying this but Pandora's Box.

Jessica: You're saying that because you know what kind of climbing day you're having.

I have my left foot on the Notorious B-O-X -- the crux of the route that has been stumping me big time.

One hand on the box and one hand on the hold that we refer to as The Buddha


Stepping on The Buddha hold as I make my way to the top
After climbing, we go to Sweet Art. As we get to the counter, the guy says I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the kitchen is closed and I feel myself turning sour again; there is nothing on the bulletin board, door or website about when the kitchen closes. I thought you had new, extended hours. We do but the kitchen closes at 3:30, he says. I look up at the clock which says 3. Finally, this lady says that she will hook us up with Sweet Burgers (i.e. veggie burgers).

We get our Sweet Burgers in no time. They are warm and delicious.

Patti: You need to climb angry more often.

Me: Will you make me angry next time we climb?

Patti: No problem...

St. Patrick's Parade Route Tally:

Rumpelstiltskin, 5.6

Jurassic 5, 5.7

Let Me Smang It Girl, 5.8

The Letter Eye, 5.8

Jack and the Bean Stalk, 5.9

Pandora's Box, 5.9

The End of 2010, 5.9

Rodeo Clowns, 5.9

On the alert scale, hope that you're having a green day.

(Even More) Stuff People Say To Me

I had forgotten. I don't remember you being that big; that must have been when you were at your biggest. Don't do that anymore.


One of my colleagues after she came across a picture of me from a luncheon that we attended years ago.

You were wearing black; that didn't help. You know, you were just you then but now I notice the difference., Same coworker after more old pictures surfaced

Where did you get that from (ying yang pendant) and why are you wearing it?, Acquaintance

Since you're athletic..., Another Acquaintance

You were a good subject. Thank you., Student massage therapist.

Slopers are just good for finding the next foothold.

Tim and I arrived at the climbing gym at the same time one day. We climbed together and since he was rocking the 5.11+'s, I picked his brain.

OCD...Jeremy's quiet comment to me after I inquired again about how many routes he had climbed. I like to count routes and, apparently, I like to know if other people are counting too.

You can make your own hummus. (Said by several people)

You're so secretive. I'm like a river. I just flow. I say everything..., Colleague

Beautician (watching as I get my hair cut): I want to cut my hair but I've been growing it out.

My Barber: Maybe you can cut it for the summer. I've been doing her hair for about eight years now.

Me: I think about growing it out every now and then but then I immediately change my mind.

My Barber: I keep expecting her to come in and ask for highlights.

Me: My hair is too short for highlights.

Barber and Beautician: No, it's not.

Me: I can't believe that Michael is more into running. Who knew? The secret lives of rock climbers.

Patti: Climber...Runner
Climber...Swimmer
Climber...Couch Potato

Are you drinking plenty of fluids?...They have Emergen-C on sale at Walgreens...If you need anything, let me know..., Chorus heard through the monster February cold of 2011.

The Gospel According to Patti

That's Patti a.k.a The Tenacious One over to the left -- lead climbing a route outdoors and what follows below is her gospel.

Do your hands ever get sore?, I asked in child-like wonder. My hands get so tender while climbing at times.

Patti turned her hands over and discussed the merits of calluses that have fallen off. Yeah, they get sore but I just don't talk about them because my knees are sore, my back is sore and my elbows are sore. Your problem is that you're not sore enough....

If I start it, I'm going to climb it.

Mike and I were trying to figure out the The Skull Cracking route which had a challenging beginning. It looked impossible to start so we called Patti over. Patti is like that Mikey kid in the Life commercials; she'll climb anything and, sure enough, she did. Once the belay was off, Patti said, That one's all about balance.

I was attempting to climb Girl Power, a challenging 5.9 route. I had attempted it several times before I concluded that maybe I wasn't tall enough.

Patti: How tall are you?

Me: 5'3

Patti: I think you're taller.

Me: (Crumpled brow)

Patti: I certainly think I'm taller...

The move needs to be deliberate and controlled, more advice from Patti as I tried to ascend Girl Power, a 5.9 route.

What happened to muscle memory? Me after trying to get over the arête of Girl Power

Patti: You gave it new memory.

You know that part that you always get stuck on? Step on that rock instead, do a drop knee and it'll just shove you up to the top...

Patti's advice after I climbed Pacman Revival, a 5.9 route whose crux continued to baffle me.

After not being able to get over the arête of a route...

Me: Are you going to show me how to do it?

Patti: Well, I'm going to either show you how to do it or how not to do it.

The ladies at work told me that I'm a hypochondriac.

I told them that I'm a conversationalist and I talk about what ails me.

Patti: That's like a dangling modifier.

Me: Wow, I haven't heard that in awhile. Anybody see that comma splice? This conversation has really taken a turn for the worst.


Mike: No, it hasn't; we haven't talked about colons yet.

Patti: You're doing excellent. It took me a year to climb 5.9's and, if I weren't climbing better than you right now, I'd be disappointed since I've been climbing for three years.

If I don't say it enough, it's because I don't say stuff like that. Remind me in nine months and I'll tell you again.

Remember, I'm the cool one -- after Patti gave me advice on how to tackle a burly 5.9*

I always tell my kids it's all about the attitude.

Patti to me after a series of pep talks about climbing goals, not going against the grain of routes, having fun and not being hard on myself after I mentioned that I had hit the proverbial wall when it came to climbing.

Don't be a purist.

Patti to me after I struggled with Now That's More Like It, a 5.9 route; I insisted on going left even though I had lots of footholds on the right side. In addition, I didn't want to cheat my way up by using holds that didn't belong to the route.

Patti: I'm going to climb this (Now That's More Like It) even though it's hard.

Me: :o, That's mean.

Patti: (Chuckling) Are you still surprised about that now?




*Patti acknowledged her coolness after I told her what Gingersnapper wrote...

The Fun Dihedral or Overheard At The Gym, III

Male climber: You're selectively nice.

Female climber: Silence.

Female climber: More silence.

Female climber: I'm going to be selectively nice and let you take Metrolink instead of giving you a ride.

He has a strength to weight ratio that I can only dream about.

Chris, one of my climbing partners, regarding his son who scampered up Grab the Jug, a 5.8 route.

Chris

On belay?, Climber

Belay is on., Person taking belay certification

You can't answer that question., An Upper Limits staff member

The would-be belayer had not taken enough slack out of the rope.

At this point, I'm not running my schedule; my schedule is running me.,Chris

I don't really eat meat but I'll eat Pappy's ribs., A woman's comment when a discussion about said ribs broke out.

So, it's better to have climbed and lost than to not have climbed at all?

After explaining to Jerry (Mike's brother) that, while one should follow the designated route, sometimes we climb out of our comfort zones, get practice and make our way to the top any way possible.

This is horrible -- Sophie about halfway up a gnarly 5.11b.

As Sophie got towards the top, she did this awesome move were she swung her body from right to left to get over the arch.

Sophie is strong., An observer watching Sophie climb

I don't like this route (Billy Goat Chips). I probably need to do it out of antipathy., Chris

That dihedral is really fun., a climber suggesting a route to Patti and me.

But, um, yeah; it's a 5.11a called Top Kill.

I saw the Reel Rock Tour and realized that I have been such a pansy. I'm going to take my climbing to the next level., Kristen

What are you taking to the next level?

The Art of Being Called Out

You know that route in your sleep.

That's what Patti said as I walked towards Steller's, a 5.8 route.

The rightness of her statement made me walk over to Have Fun, Be Fun, a 5.9 route that I had tussled with before and that I really didn't want to have anything to do with. I wasn't able to climb halfway up and that route, by the way, was no fun at all.

While I was at it, I tackled Where The Beer Flows Like Wine, a 5.8 route that is quite, as Chris would say, burly.

I felt such a sense of accomplishment after taking on those routes and the next time that I tried Have Fun, Be Fun, I made it just a little bit further along.


Route Tally for Nov. 6th:

Kristin's Farewell, 5.8

Life in the Pack, 5.8

We (fear) the People, 5.8

Have Fun, Be Fun, 5.9 (rainbowed)

Photosystem, 5.9 (rainbowed)

Six Week Warrior, 5.9

P.S. Have, Fun, Be Fun still owns me but I keep going back for more...

Is there something that you keep going back for more of?

Overheard At The Gym, II

If you turn that equation (photosynthesis) around, it's combustion. Chris (one of my climbing partners)

Stuck Climber: I don't know what to do.

Belayer: Keep going up.

Less blood in the feet, more blood in the hands. A climber that I was sitting next to; we sighed after taking our rock climbing shoes off.

I have a lot of vacation time but not a lot of money. (new, gray-eyed) Mike's assessment on the beauty and cheapness of climbing outdoors.

After I got caught blatantly reading the back of someone's t-shirt with tea etiquette quotes.

My friends and I went camping and someone brought The Complete Works of Oscar Wilde. We took turns reading in a British accent; it was so much fun.

Belayer: What are you doing?

Climber (on a 5.10 route): I don't know.

Climber: Oh, sh@t. Take!

Lead Climber: I hate falling.

Belayer: Then don't fall; keep on climbing.

Voilà.... F#%@.... Voilà.... Nice... (Two climbers who talk, primarily, in French but like to drop bombs in English.)

Headstrong Into It

I asked Ryan if he would talk with me about climbing; he agreed.

‘Drea: How long have you been rock climbing?


Ryan: I’ve been rock climbing for about eight years now.


‘Drea: How’d you get into it?


Ryan: Through the Girl Scouts.

‘Drea: Really? How so?

Ryan: I came with a group adventure -- like a little group with the Girl Scouts; my cousin is a part of it and she invited me to come along and that’s pretty much how I got into rock climbing.


‘Drea: Did you like it when you first started?


Ryan: I did. I loved it.


‘Drea: Have you taken any classes?


Ryan: I’ve taken all the classes that we offer here at the gym. I’ve taken the six week class – all the basic stuff but the real gist of climbing comes with experience. You have to experience things to really get better at it.

‘Drea: Did you learn anything valuable from the classes?

Ryan: Yeah, but you can’t really teach someone how to lead climb in a class; it’s more of your personal style…

‘Drea: So, what are you climbing nowadays?


Ryan: Right now, I climb about a 5.11… Before I joined the military, I was climbing 5.12’s and V.7’s

‘Drea: What do you like more bouldering or climbing?

Ryan: I will always be a boulderer but because my knees are bad, I can’t really take the landings anymore. So, I’ve just kinda of given up on it and gone back to climbing.

‘Drea: Well, I can’t do the bouldering; I don’t like the falling part of it. (laughing) What kind of technique do you rely on when you’re climbing?


Ryan: Since I’m a boulderer at heart, I use more of my upper body which kind of sucks when you’re climbing routes because you get tired with using your upper body. I’ve been trying to teach myself to use my lower body…

‘Drea: How does that work? Because I know that I use my upper body more…


Ryan: You’re supposed to use your toes and your footwork more and climb more with your frame instead of your muscles but I tend to over grip on things and really pull with them instead of pushing with my legs.

‘Drea: Yeah, that’s why my hands look all jacked up now.


Ryan: Mine look pretty.

‘Drea: (laughing) …Are you involved in any other sports activities?


Ryan: No.


‘Drea: So, rock climbing is it? How often do you get to climb?


Ryan: When I’m not so busy with school, like in the summertime, I’ll be in here five days a week.


‘Drea: And you’ve done outdoor climbing, right?

Ryan: I’ve been all over the country -- from New York to California.

‘Drea: What’s your favorite place outdoors?

Ryan: It’s actually in New York City in Central Park.

‘Drea: Really?


Ryan: There’s a boulder problem that I worked on for the entire time the first time that I was visiting New York City. It was a V.10 in Central Park and the name of the problem was Sweat of the Rapist...

‘Drea: :o….


Ryan: It was really hard and it was a really cool route… Then, out in California, we went to Yosemite and I did some bouldering out there. Wyoming. Colorado. New Mexico -- all over the place.


‘Drea: Is there a certain way that you approach a route or do you pretty much figure it out as you go along?


Ryan: The best way to do it is to look at it and get a feel for the moves first or, usually, I just go headstrong into it as hard as I can -- make my mistakes up the wall then I learn from my mistakes.


‘Drea: How long have you been lead climbing?


Ryan: I'd say about six years.

‘Drea: What are some of your rock climbing goals?

Ryan: Goals? I don’t really have many. I do it because I love the sport not because I want to be the best at it. I do it for me. I just want to be able to get in here more often because it does make me happy when I climb -- kinda like that runner’s high.


‘Drea: Yeah, I miss it too. Like now, my calves are hurting but I really want to get in here tomorrow to climb… What was your most memorable route?


Ryan: My most memorable route was actually a boulder problem. I can’t remember the name of it. I think it ended up being a V.13 and I just worked on it all day in Laramie, Wyoming (by the state college). If you’ve ever been to Elephant Rocks, it’s probably the same texture....but on a grand scale and this boulder problem was right next to this like 1,000 foot wall and it was really over hung with a beautiful line and a dyno right in the middle and nasty crimps and nasty slopers. I worked on that for a good six hours.

‘Drea: What part of the military where you in?


Ryan: I was in the army.


‘Drea: Do you mind telling me about your accident again?


Ryan: I fell done a flight of steps and broke both patella, tore my ACL (anterior cruciate ligament), MCL ( medial collateral ligament) and meniscus and fractured both tibia.

‘Drea: How did you get back to climbing condition?

Ryan: Lots of physical therapy.

‘Drea: Was it painful? (Possibly the craziest question that I’ve asked so far…)

Ryan: ...Like, right now, I’m still doing my physical therapy. I’m about a year and a half into it and it still hurts every day. Like walking from my bedroom to my kitchen to get a glass of milk hurts.

‘Drea: What kind of exercises do they have you doing?


Ryan: It’s more of like strengthening the muscles around my knees to compensate for the joint damage to my knees. It’s a lot of stuff to strengthen my quads and my calves and they said that part of it is that I have overdeveloped calves and it’s kind of pulling on my kneecap… and that‘s why it still hurts so bad. The guy said my quads are underdeveloped and my calves are overdeveloped and he said that it could be from the way that I rode my bike -- all my life.

‘Drea: Do you still bicycle?

Ryan: I try to. I have a little BMX bike. So, I tend to do stupid stuff on it.

‘Drea: Do you go on any trails around here?

Ryan: It’s usually just city riding…

‘Drea: You said that climbing doesn’t bother your knees?


Ryan: Climbing routes doesn’t bother my knees. It’s very low impact and I’m usually climbing in the overhang and it‘s a soft fall.

‘Drea: Did I ask you if you liked rock climbing the first time that you tried it?


Ryan: Yes.

'Drea: What did you like about it?

Ryan: Everything…

‘Drea: If you were to tell someone about rock climbing and they didn’t know anything about it, what would you tell them?


Ryan: It’s a lot of fun and you get out of it what you put into it.


‘Drea: All right. Thank you.

Ryan: No problem.




For my final pictures, I asked Ryan if I could get shots of his Where The Wild Things Are tattoo.

Whenever I see Ryan in the gym this refrain, of course, pops into my head:

The wild things roared their terrible roars and gnashed their terrible teeth and rolled their terrible eyes...

Make Yourself Taller

As much as I like to rock climb, I like to watch other people climb too. One day I saw Becky tap her foot up the wall to reach the next hold on a challenging 5.10 route which also made me want to chitchat with her about climbing. Recently, I got a chance to have that chat between routes.

'Drea: How long have you been climbing?

Becky: Maybe two or three years but not regularly.

'Drea: Did you instantly take a liking to it?

Becky: No, no. Not at all. Chuck (Becky's husband) started climbing. He's probably been doing it for seven or eight years. I think I tried it once and I hated it and I think it took me a couple of years and I was bored and I was thinking -- maybe I could try it.

'Drea: Did he (Chuck) ask you to try it again?

Becky: No, he didn't specifically ask me but I saw that he enjoyed it and I thought I would give it another try...


'Drea: Did you taking any rock climbing classes?

Becky: No, because he can teach me a lot of things...

'Drea: What's the highest route you've ever climbed?

Becky: Actually, the last time that I was here, I did a 10 (5.10) and I was pretty happy with that...

'Drea: Congratulations. Which 5.10 route did you do?

Becky:...There's one up there -- a 5.10 (Heelin the Pain); I can do all the moves but I haven't put them all together yet...

'Drea: Well, you looked pretty good when I saw you on it...



(Becky Lead Belaying for Chuck)

'Drea to Chuck: So, do you mind if I ask you how you got into rock climbing?

Chuck: Oh, with my kids. We have two boys. I was really taking them and belaying them.

'Drea: Did you like it the first time?

Chuck: Yeah, I did. I loved it. Basically, I was doing what Paul is doing -- belaying a lot not really getting a chance to climb myself. It's kind of like skiing. People ask how long have you been skiing. Well, I've been skiing for 30 years but if you only go once a year, you don't get very good and that's kind of the way I was with rock climbing... How long have you been rock climbing? Twenty years but many of those years I was just belaying the kids and going once or twice a year. It wasn't until we moved here that I joined the gym and started doing it seriously and I'm retired so I could have more time to do it.

'Drea: What did you like about it?

Chuck: It's something that I'm good at. I like meeting people too. It's a social sport much more so than, say, running. Running's kind of a lonely thing that you do by yourself or at least I do. Climbing you have to have a partner. You usually go on trips and you have friends. I love the social aspects of climbing. This is my social hour.

'Drea: Have you done marathons?

Chuck: Yeah, three of them.

'Drea: Have you done the Go! St. Louis?

Chuck: No. In Detroit. We lived in Detroit.

Chuck has also done high altitude climbing.

'Drea: How does high altitude climbing differ from indoor?

Chuck: For one thing, you can't breathe very well above 20,000 feet and it's mostly walking. There's very little rock climbing and you're on snow and ice and you're using crampons and your feet and you're roped up from one climber to the next.

'Drea: Did you take any rock climbing classes?

Chuck: No...

'Drea: I wonder because sometimes I feel like I'm missing out on technique by not taking classes.

Chuck: I don't think so. It just comes with practice...I would have never imagined that Becky would be climbing 5.10's. I'm just amazed at her...

'Drea to Becky: Do you have any strategy when you are approaching a route? Do you map it out on the ground?

Becky: (shakes her head and smiles a bit) No, I think you have to be really good to map it out on the ground. Which foot is going to go where...

Becky to 'Drea: Do you usually plan a route from the ground?

'Drea: I usually don't but I've heard people say, I need to put my left arm here, my hip into the wall there. I kinda of just do it as I go...

Becky: I don't know how they do that...

'Drea: So do you think you rely on anything more like drop knee or flagging or smearing or anything like when you're climbing? Is there anything that you like to resort to more? Or balance?

Becky: Yeah, I try to use balance and, when I'm on the wall, I try to see where my next move will be...

'Drea: Do you do any self-talk or are there any little reminders you're giving yourself as you climb?

Becky: No...

'Drea: You just kind of go with the flow, hunh? Are you involved in any other activities?

Becky: I do yoga. Do you do yoga?

'Drea: I do.

Becky: Where do you do it at?

'Drea: At home. I've never been to a class or anything. I have DVDs...I don't know if I'm actually doing a lot of the poses right.

Becky: You should go to a class.

'Drea: I think I will because I have a habit of doing things out of alignment...

'Drea: What kind of yoga do you do?

Becky: I've done different kinds: Vinyasa flow...Hatha yoga, Ashtanga...

'Drea: That was one of the documentaries that I watched (Ashtanga, NY) and it looked incredibly difficult.

Becky: They're all pretty similar. They kinda put it as being different schools of yoga but...

'Drea: Do you think that yoga helps you with climbing?

Becky: Yes, I think it helps your balance. And it helps your breathing. I think that's one thing about climbing (especially when you get upset), you have to keep breathing and yoga helps you with that.



'Drea: Are you a runner?

Becky: Not much...

'Drea: If someone were interested in rock climbing, how would you describe it to them?

Becky: It's really a neat sport and men and women can do both evenly in some respects...

'Drea: Have you invited anyone to climb?

Becky: I've mentioned it to a few of my colleagues but nobody's taken me up on it.

'Drea: I know. I can't get any takers and some people say they'll come and then cancel...

Becky: And then some people are afraid of heights.

'Drea: I wasn't crazy about heights but...Did you have any fear of heights?

Becky: Not in the gym but Chuck has taken me outside a few times...and that's a totally different situation and can be scary...

'Drea: Where did you all go outside?

Becky: Outside of Las Vegas (Red Rock Canyon) and we did a little bit in Colorado.

'Drea: Do you have any rock climbing goals?

Becky: To get better. I started climbing twice a week just in the last month. I can feel that I'm getting things that I couldn't do before when I was coming once a week and then I would have to skip a week or two for work...

'Drea: Do you have any plans to do lead climbing?

Becky: I'm thinking about it...

No need to ask Becky about her shoes since I spotted the 5.10's on the ground.

After our interview, Becky climbed Two Weeks Off, a 5.10 route. She was attempting to get over the crux when Chuck said make yourself taller. I made a mental note to remember that the next time I'm facing challenges on a route.

Hearsay

I'm on an exercise streak. Today marks my 38th day of exercise. I know that I should rest but, if an exercise opportunity presents itself, count me in.

I have at least one regular exercise (rock climbing) partner with whom I have a semi-set schedule and I try to keep that commitment. Otherwise, my sole commitment is to myself. I'm not really trying to prove anything. Or, am I?

I went to this step class that I can't go to often. I really like the teacher and, to my surprise, she was out with a hip injury and when I went rock climbing a few days ago, this youngin' was bouldering and fell awkwardly -- two of his buddies had to lend a shoulder. So, I know that I need to be careful but... Also, I do feel extremely fortunate that my body has had phenomenal staying power.

It was nice when I recently got feedback from three people:

My friend that I hadn't seen in a month told me that I had definitely lost weight.

My friend's friend's husband told me that each time he sees me I am thinner and thinner.

Mike, one of my belay partners, that I haven't seen in about three weeks told me I looked more toned.

I am pleased to report that the scale says I've dropped three pounds. I knew it was going to move because I was walking, at least, four miles a day in Las Vegas. Plus, I swam a couple of mornings as well. It's the same thing that happened in New York when I got it in my noggin to start this journey. Apparently, the key to losing weight is to go on vacation, not get a rental car and walk until your feet smart...


I went rock climbing today and I was able to ascend four 5.9 routes. I'm so happy with that accomplishment. Patti climbed two 5.10 routes and Mike feels as if he's turned a corner with his climbing. So, we are all improving.

I went and got another massage after rock climbing since I've been going at it so hard. In between working out, I've also made stretching a priority.

I went to a different massage therapist and, when it was over, she told me that I have an inflamed left spinal something or other. I told her about the small remnant of the injury that's left and she wanted to know why I didn't mention it. I did put it on the info sheet but I don't think anyone really looks over those thoroughly. I didn't verbalize it because the injury seems so minuscule and because, hey, I can do the backstroke again. Can't do the table pose but considering how the shoulder was bothering me before, I feel so grateful that it doesn't feel yucky now.


I ate out again. Seems like I have another streak going. I promised this volunteer at work that I would go to Sweet Art with her before she leaves.

I decided to try the Sweet Burger which has a note underneath it on the menu that says it's the best veggie burger in town. There's also a chalk board that says they don't have high fructose corn syrup, chemicals that you can't pronounce or anything else that's bad for you in their food.





(Inside the Veggie Burger)

The Sweet Burger is, indeed, the best veggie burger that I've had in this town.

I heard that the cupcakes are good too but that's just hearsay since I didn't indulge.





Route Tally for August 7th:

The Seven, 5.7
Grab The Jug, 5.8
Where's My Mind?, 5.8
"Light," 5.9
Girl Power, 5.9
Hermano?, 5.9
Pacman Revival, 5.9
Stratch and Sniff, 5.9 (aborted midway)

Strategy overheard at the gym: Climb smart at the bottom and quick at the top.

Leaning On Each Other

During our normal meet-up negotiations, Patti said that she was ready to go (climbing) now. We still had about 24 hours to go but it made me wonder how often Patti would go climbing if she had her way. She responded two to three times and asked me how often I would go. Three, I responded. Patti was all like, well, let's start planning.

I love a woman who can make fireworks happen. Hee-hee.


I was chit chatting with Josh before Patti and company arrived. I asked him about how he coped with tender hands and he inferred in a very nice way that I, basically, needed to suck it up. What about tape? He only uses it for crack climbing or injuries. Injuries you say?


'Drea's Callused Chalk-Coated Hand

I also asked Josh about his ritual of hanging on holds. He's warming up his hands especially since a finger is injured. I thought he was strength training.


When Josh saw me, he started smiling -- not because he was happy to see me but because he assumed that Patti would be coming.

Me: What makes you think Patti is coming?
Josh: Because you all climb in packs.

Josh has been strongly nagging encouraging Patti to lead climb and she did lead climb three routes. The pack is so proud of our little shining star.


Patti Clipping In on Chag
So, as Josh leans on Patti, Patti leans on me. I briefly took a short, practice rope in addition to the regular rope to try my hand at lead climbing. I also attempted to climb the Chest Cracking Cart route. Yowza...

Route Tally:

Sponge Bob, 5.7 (Ascended and Down Climbed 2x's)
The Seven, 5.7
Hallelujah, 5.8
Chag, 5.9/5.8
Chest Cracking Cart, 5.9 (Aborted)
Pacman Revival, 5.9

I also did a little bouldering. Thanks to the rock climber with the star burst tattoo who gave me a tip about the rope while I was practicing lead climbing. Forty eight hours until I climb again...

Is someone leaning on you or are you leaning on yourself? Are you looking forward to your next exercise outing?

Are You A Hustler?

Me: I feel like I'm really getting my butt kicked today.

Patti: That's strange; I usually feel it in my arms.

Har dee har har...My belay partner has such comic timing...

The butt-kicking and tender hands are courtesy of some routes that I have not been able to ascend or have not tried at all. I am so done right now. After I got down from Festival of Britain and Somebody Done Told You Wrong, I told Patti that I didn't know how she did it. I never found the technique, balance or solid *ground* to ascend those routes with continuity.

Route Tally:

Sponge Bob, 5.7

Bright Idea, 5.8

Hallelujah, 5.8

Let's Talk of Spaceship, 5.8

Rainbow Bright, 5.8

Chag, 5.9/5.8

Beware of Bats, 5.9

Festival of Britain, 5.9 (Can you say barn door and rainbow climbing ?)

Somebody Done Told You Wrong, 5.9 (take after take got me up the route)

There was this trio of women who took Rock Climbing 101; they squealed and giggled almost the entire time they were there...

Okay, who saw the women's French Open? I don't watch much tennis but that was one of the most exciting tennis matches that I've ever witnessed. I immediately noticed Samantha Stosur's body. She has bulging biceps and thighs and her body has this completely symmetrical aspect to it. Then, I looked at Francesca Schiavone's body and her biceps and thighs are athletic but not as pumped as Stosur's. One of the commentators was saying how Stosur's body could be an intimidation factor for other opponents.

The match was tightly contested and, at one point, one of the commentators said that Schiavone was a hustler. He was right. That woman was sliding all over the court and, passionately, giving it her all. It was a joy to watch her play and, in many ways, I do think she out-hustled Stosur.

Breaking sports news video. MLB, NFL, NBA, NHL highlights and more.

Are you hustling during your workouts and are you having fun?

Congratulations, big time, to Francesca Schiavone, the first Italian, oldest woman (at 29) and first non-top 10 seed, to win the French Open.